Before You Pour: What Every PIP Project Needs

Before You Pour: What Every PIP Project Needs

Poured-in-place (PIP) surfacing looks simple when it’s done—but getting it right takes planning. Before the first granule hits the ground, there are a few critical steps every project owner should know. Skip these, and you’ll pay for it later in delays, warranty headaches, or worse, a surface that doesn’t perform.

Prep the Site Like a Pro

First rule: clear out everything organic. Roots, soil, mulch—they’ll decompose and cause settling. Excavation depth depends on your design, but the goal is a stable, clean base. And don’t ignore drainage. PIP is porous, so water needs a way out. Standing water under your surface is a recipe for failure.

Choose the Right Sub-Base

You’ve got options:

  • Crushed Aggregate: Minimum 4" of ¾" crushed stone, compacted tight.
  • Concrete: Must be cured at least 14 days and free of cracks.
  • Asphalt: Needs 30 days to cure and three rounds of power washing before install.

Each base has its own prep requirements—ignore them and you’ll compromise the entire system.

Edges Matter

Borders aren’t just cosmetic. They lock the system in place and prevent shifting. Concrete, treated timbers, rubber curbs, or beveled edges are all options. Just know this: PIP will not adhere to plastic timbers.

Binder and Color Choices

Two binder types:

  • Aromatic: Standard, cost-effective, but expect ambering under UV. It’s temporary and doesn’t affect performance.
  • Aliphatic: Premium, color stays true, higher price point.

Color blends? 50/50 black and color is most popular, but you can go full color if you want a bold look.

Know Your Thickness

Surface thickness depends on fall height. Cushion layer handles impact, wear course handles aesthetics and durability. If you’re skipping the cushion layer, you need asphalt or concrete underneath.

Maintenance Isn’t Optional

Routine cleaning, occasional power washing, and a maintenance spray every 3–5 years keep the surface strong and vibrant. Repairs—patches, seams, perimeter fixes—should be done professionally.

[A great PIP surface starts with prep. Excavation, drainage, sub-base, edging—these aren’t details, they’re the foundation. Get them right, and your playground will look good and perform for years. Get them wrong, and you’ll be chasing problems before the first season ends.

Written By: The Surfacing Group

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